Ferret Health
A ferret's best defense against disease and illness
is proper nutrition and proper veterinary care.

 

(courtesy FerretsFirst)
Housing/Environment

Ferrets must be kept indoors, and should never be exposed to temperatures above 80 degrees, or below 60 degrees. Ferrets cannot sweat. A panting ferret is in heat distress and should be immediately moved to a cooler area. Your ferret will have an area of shade in his cage at all times. Accessorizing a cage or changing cage accessories is NOT a substitute for out-time, but it IS vitally important for ferrets that are primarily caged. They still do their real "playing" outside of the cage.

Wire cages should be made of "welded" wire, not wire mesh or wire cloth or "chicken wire". Home crafted cages incorporating wood in the construction should have sheet metal or hard plastic wall covering on the bottom 4 inches of all walls and floors should be constructed of welded wire, not wood. Wood retains odors and cannot be easily disinfected without damaging the wood. A good size for 1 to 3 ferrets is 24" x 24" x 18" tall. The floor and ramps of a wire cage should be completely covered with soft cloth material to prevent injury to the ferret's feet, as they are very delicate.

A heavy crock bowl with straight sides can be used for food. Lightweight plastic bowls invite creative ferret redecorating.

Ferrets are "latrine" animals, meaning that they do not, by nature, defecate where they eat or sleep. Most ferrets quickly learn to use a litter box.Some may prove a little harder to teach, but there are methods to help your ferret learn to use the litter box. Ferrets do not cover their pooh as cats do. Clumping litters are harmful to ferrets and should never be used. Pine litter or crystal litter should not be used for ferrets. An low-dust clay litter with no dyes or perfumes added works well for ferrets that aren't inclined to playing in fresh litter. The litter box should be scooped once daily with a solid (not slotted) scoop to minimize litter box odor. Scoops designed for food are ideal.

Litter boxes should be rectangular (NOT triangular!) and large enough for the ferret to get all four feet in and back up in a corner comfortably. Large ferrets (over 2.5 pounds) should have a litter box the size of a large cat litter box. One litter box is usually sufficient for up to 3 ferrets. If there are more than 3 ferrets in one cage, additional litter boxes will be needed, even though boxes are scooped once a day. If a litter box is not available on all floors, they often will use any convenient corner instead of going up or down the ramps. Cover any wall within 4 inches of the cage to protect wall covering from litter box overshooting.

Ferrets prefer soft, snuggly bedding and favor old T-shirts, sweatshirts and pants, and other soft materials. Sleep sacks made especially for ferrets are very popular, as are hammocks and soft play tubes. These items are also available through the shelter. Washing the bedding on a weekly basis will also minimize odor. Cedar shaving bedding should NEVER be used for ferrets as it can cause irreparable respiratory damage.

Veterinary Care

A ferrets normal life span is from 6-9 years, and beginning at the age of 2-3 they are susceptible to two very common serious illnesses: Insulinoma and Adrenal Disease, which could require medical and/or surgical intervention, which could become quite costly. A ferret will need to be seen by a ferret knowledgeable veterinarian at least annually for a check-up and required vaccines consisting of rabies (IMRAB3) and distemper (Purevax-D, Fervac-D). Though not approved for use in ferrets, Galaxy-D has been used safely for years and provides the necessary protection.

A baby ferret will need a distemper innoculation at about 8 weeks of age, a booster at 11-12 weeks of age, with the final booster at 14-16 weeks, then vaccinated annually. The yearly rabies shot should be given at 12-13 weeks of age (two weeks between the distemper shots). These shots are a necessity! Full grown female ferrets will range on average between 1 - 2 lbs, while the male will range from 2 - 4 lbs. You can expect your ferret to live about 6-9 years, while retaining their activeness most of their lives.


(portions courtesy TexasFerret & EverythingFerret.com)
Nutrition
Ferrets need to be provided with fresh food and water twenty-four hours a day. Ferrets will not normally overeat. Feeding your ferret a proper diet is extremely important.

Ferrets are carnivores and should be fed a high protein (at least 34%), high fat (at least 20%) high quality chicken or lamb based dry ferret diet (See Shopping- Ferret Food, Treats and Vitamin Supplements for examples). Do not feed cat food - it does not have proper nutrients and can contribute to health problems! Totally Ferret, Zupreem for Ferrets, and Ultimate 8 and 1 or Marshall's Diet are the best choices. Chicken or lamb should be listed in some form (poultry, lamb or poultry meal) as the number one ingredient in the list of ingredients on the back of the bag. You should also look for food that is naturally preserved with vitamin E and has no artificial colors. Ferrets have very short digestive tracts, so they need a food that contains easily digestible meat protein. Foods that list grain or corn as the first ingredient should not be used. Many ferrets like the occasional bit of cooked egg or soft fruit treat (a couple grapes, raisins, banana slice). If you are feeding your ferret a high quality food, supplements are not really necessary (unless they are ill and off their regular feed). A few drops of Ferretone or a pea sized dab of Ferretvite should suffice as a daily treat (don't follow the directions on the bottle- your ferret's food contains vitamin A as well). Always be aware of the dangers of possible vitamin A toxicity. For this reason, it is not advisable to give your ferret too much of any supplement, even though they may really enjoy it.

If you have an older ferret (4+) you may want to switch to a low protein dry food. To switch your ferret's food, add a very small amount of the new food to the old food, gradually increasing the amount of new food over a period of days or weeks. Avoid dairy, apple peel, nuts, chocolate, salt or carrots. Some food and supplement choices available:

Vita-Sol is a water soluable multivitamin concentrate which supplies important vitamins essential for the proper growth and maintenance of your ferret. To be added directly to drinking water.

Zupreem is a dry food fortified with vitamins and minerals, ZuPreem Premium Ferret Diet provides all the nutrients your ferret needs and no supplements are required. ZuPreem Premium Ferret Diet is also fortified with taurine and methionine, essential amino acids your ferret requires. Judge other ferret foods here.

Totally Ferrett is a dry food, Totally Ferret® for Active Show and Pet Ferrets™ provides balanced and complete nutrition for your growing ferrets as well as for active adults, pregnant and nursing jills as determined in actual ferret feeding studies. Totally Ferret® for Active Show and Pet Ferrets™ contains an Omega 6 and Omega 3 Fatty Acid Balance for a healthy, shiny coat and is naturally preserved with Vitamin E. Judge other ferret foods here.

Ferretone is a scientifically formulated supplement to be added to ferret's regular daily regimen. Routine use of Ferretone will provide ferrets with essential fatty acids and vitamins necessary to maintain healthy skin and coat.

Ferretvite is a high energy daily supplement specially formulated for ferrets. If ferrets are off their normal diet, Ferretvite helps stimulate appetite and increase weight gain. Rich in essential fatty acids, and added Taurine, Ferretvite ensures a glossy coat and healthy skin.

VitaTone is a liquid food supplement specially formulated with essential fatty acids, marine lipids, vitamins and zinc to provide your ferret with essential nutrients that they may be lacking in their daily diet. Regular use of VitaTone helps to promote and maintain a healthy skin and coat while cutting down on excess shedding and flaking skin.

8 in 1 Hairball As ferrets groom themselves by licking their coats, loose hair is swallowed and gets trapped in their digestive tract. FerretCare Hairball Remedy Treats are scientifically formulated to help eliminate hairballs that interfere with normal digestion. Packed with ferret-favorite ingredients including real tuna, FerretCare Hairball Remedy Treats are sure to become a favorite in your ferret's weekly grooming routine.


Bathing
Baths are recommended no more often than once a month. More frequent bathing will dry out the skin and coat, and actually make your ferret smell worse as the body works extra hard to produce more skin oils. Ferrets will smell the worst in the 2-3 weeks after a bath as their skin oils replenish. Some owners recommend bathing only when needed (such as if the ferret gets dirty playing in something or picks up fleas) or twice a year. More

Trimming Nails
Left untrimmed, long nails make walking difficult, painful, and ultimately, impossible. Long nails are dangerous; they become entangled in bedding and clothing and risk being pulled out. More

Ear Cleaning
A careful bimonthly cleaning will remove waxy buildup and reduce the possibility of ear wax hardening and causing hearing problems. Ferrets may also receive scratches to the inside of the ears during vigorous play or scratching with too-long nails. Gentle cleaning removes dried blood deposits which feel uncomfortable and could increase irritation to the ears. More

Dental Care
Ferrets have 40 adult teeth on which plaque can collect and calcify to form tartar if not removed. Tartar can also form under the gumline and cause infection and tooth decay. This infection can cause kidney disease, digestive problems, and severe discomfort for the ferret. Dental neglect means that your ferret will have to go to the vet, be anesthetized, and scale the teeth. This is particularly hard (and risky) on older ferrets, and expensive for any ferret. Avoid the need for this by brushing your ferret's teeth! More

Home Safety
Yes, ferret-proofing directly affects ferret health. Ferrets are very curious by nature and can get injured or even killed by their natural attraction to all the wrong human things. Although it is impossible to completely "ferret proof" your home, certain things can be done to make sure your ferret stays safe. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING, so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt themselves or your possessions. More









 

 

 

Housing

Vet Care

Nutrition

Bathing

Grooming

Home Safety

 

 

 

 

 

 



SCRUFFING

The term scruffing refers to a painless technique an owner can use to temporarily immobilize or discipline a ferret. Much as a mother cat picks up a kitten by the nape of the kitten's neck, a ferret owner can painlessly pick up a ferret by the nape of its neck. In addition to holding the ferret by the nape of the neck, for larger ferrets, it is also advisable to support the hind end of the ferret with another hand. Scruffing a ferret causes the ferret to be still, so that nail trimming, medicine administration, and the like can be performed.

In addition, scruffing can be used as a form of negative discipline with a ferret. If a ferret has exhibited undesirable behavior (i.e. nipping, etc.), the owner would scruff the ferret, and potentially drag the ferret, feet-side down, about a foot along the floor, while saying "No" firmly. Care should be given not to be too rough with the ferret if this type of behavior management is chosen. Positive reinforcement should always be a part of a good training program for a ferret.


Duck Soup

Duck soup is weekly diet variation made by grinding a high quality ferret food (coffee grinder, blender or food processor) then add a jar of chicken or turkey baby food and whatever other good stuff you want (a whole raw egg with shell, some vitamin paste/Nutrical/Ferretvite, Uncle Jim's Duck Soup Mix, some real cooked turkey or chicken). Run all this through a blender or a food processor with a little warm water until it makes a thick paste. When you give them the soup, zap it in the microwave to warm it up a bit, but not too hot. Heating it up will make it smell and taste better (to the ferret, that concoction smells pretty bad but they like it). You may have to add more water to get your ferret to eat it, they can be picky about the texture. This is a good food for when they are feeling sick as it is very high in calories and easy to digest and eat.


• ground Kibble, Ferretone and olive oil
• make big batches with the food processor and freeze them in icecube trays, one cube is a good sized serving for one ferret
don't give hair ball remedy and Ferratone on the same day.